The earliest verified example?

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Seth Thomas Research

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Open-Face Watches

Early 15-jewel Nickel Lever-Set Grade 199 Model 5

$995.00
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The total output of Model 5s by the factory was some 65,000 pieces in all grades and jewel counts, with the nickel variant of the adjusted Grade 199 numbering fewer than 700 in just eight small runs, according to the charts. Want to own an early example of a watch that would've been considered railroad-acceptable back in the day?

 

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Watch Description

The first logged appearance of the adjusted 15-jewel Grade 199 is SN 200406, following the unadjusted version of the same thing, the Grade 173, and barely predating the 17-jewel adjusted Grade 182, all of which would happen in a short span of time. New railroad standards would appear in a few years, making any 15-jewel watch somewhat antiquated, so the total production of this scarce grade is roughly 670 pieces, confined to the first SN block and disappearing completely before the turn of the century. This example has been thoroughly restored and carries a pattern that would not be repeated in any future grade on a movement that is in exceptional condition with everything matching and correct; even the dust band is still there. It fronts a single-sunk dial with the Roman signature, correct for this mid-grade design, and blued light spade hands. The Keystone Silveroid case is in great shape with tight hinges, tight covers, a tight bow, a sharp crown and a new beveled glass crystal. Matching watch chain and display stand are included. 

Watch Specs

Manufacturer - Seth Thomas

Serial Number - 202972

Watch Size - 18

Watch Model - 5

Watch Grade - 199

Jewel Count - 15

Winding/Setting - Stem/Lever

Production Year - 1894

Model 5 Page

Very Early Grade 36 Model 6 Eagle with Matching Dial

The earlier examples of the Eagle series carried no factory markings other than one of three engravings of our nation bird - the bald eagle - which means that many of them have likely been discarded because it wasn't obvious who made them, and this early and fairly scarce Model 6 carries the largest of those three styles of eagle. Want to own a classic?

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Watch Description

The Eagle Series debuted in the mid-1890s as a 3/4-plate lesser option to the high-grade Models 2 and 5, advertised with counts ranging from seven to seventeen, but only a handful of 15-jewel examples have been reported, and none at all with seventeen. They were a continuation on the long pallet design, starting with the Model 1 and continuing with the Model 3, which was dropped fairly quickly in favor of the open-face Model 6. This exceptional example carries both the largest of the three available eagles and a correct and flawless marked blue fancy dial behind light spade hands. It's been thoroughly restored with fresh enamel in the plate engravings and all seven of its original jewels are still intact. The nickel swing case is in great shape with a sharp crown and a tight bow, and was converted to display with NOS crystals to show off both the movement and the fantastic image of our American national bird. 

Watch Specs

Manufacturer - Seth Thomas

Serial Number - 517570

Watch Size - 18

Watch Model - 6

Watch Grade - Eagle

Jewel Count - 7

Winding/Setting - Stem/Lever

Production Year - 1896

Models 6 & 7 Page

Earliest Known 17-jewel Two-Tone Grade 281 Model 5

Charles Higginbotham, then-superintendent of the factory, applied for and was granted a patent for a pendant-set design, which was used on the first few Model 5s but then dropped for some reason, even though the plates continued to be milled for its use. The eventual choice for a pendant-set Model 5 was the Grade 281, and this is the ninth one made.

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Watch Description

Charles Higginbotham's pendant-set patent for the Model 5 was very complicated, using over two dozen separate parts and requiring five pages of drawings and six more of text to illustrate it, so it's not a complete surprise that the factory chose to discard it after Higginbotham left for the Illinois Co in favor of a simpler one. The new watch was designated the Grade 281, a numerical inversion of the existing lever-set Grade 182, and it debuted at SN 229801 as a nickel movement, a run of two hundred before the first two-tone one rolled off the line at SN 230001, making this example the ninth. It was completely restored for its next owner and appears to be an original combination with all hardware present and plate gilding that is still bright on a gorgeous pattern. It fronts a correct and flawless pressed Arabic dial and blued medium spade-and-poker hands. The gold-filled Bates and Bacon clamshell case is in excellent shape with a French bow, a sharp crown, and an NOS beveled glass crystal. Matching chain and display stand included.

Watch Specs

Manufacturer - Seth Thomas

Serial Number - 230010

Watch Size - 18

Watch Model - 5

Watch Grade - 281

Jewel Count - 17

Winding/Setting - Stem/Pendant

Production Year - 1904

Model 5 Page

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