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The Models 15 to 19
1893 to 1913
The Models 15 through 19 were all based on the same design with some minor differences, while serial number runs alternated with those of the Model 14, which began production around 1890 to be marketed as ladies' watches. The factory appears to have had both the Models 14 and 15 in production at the same time, which is odd, since both are 6-size hunter lever-set movements. See the Run Chart for more info. This second design, starting with the Model 15 and concluding with the Model 19, was divided into the Eagle and the Century Series, and roughly a quarter-million were produced overall. Complicating matters further was the 12 x 6 watches, which used 12-size dials on 6-size plates.
Grade Assignment
Grade assignments for all the 6-size models are ambiguous at best because most reported examples are parts movements without a dial photo, so it's impossible to know if it's pendant or lever-set. For ease of research all the 7-jewel movements are logged as lever-set Grade 35, though the pendant-set Grade 45 has been identified when possible.
All of the spread movements are standard 6-size models with a larger pillar plate to allow them to fit a 12-size case. They were advertised as both lever and pendant-set, but the various parts lists don't show any kind of pendant-set option. The factory offered six separate grade designations based on the two setting options and the three jewel counts, so for ease of research all examples have been graded by jewel count and not the setting mechanism.
* Grades 115 and 225 are both assigned and have been found exclusively on the Edgemere grade.
The Eagle Series Serial Number Blocks
The Model 15
The total production of the Model 15 was around 27,000 pieces in four runs from SN 128001 up to 160000. Jewel counts were 7, 11, and 15 in gilt, nickel and two-tone, and all were lever-set with flat hairsprings. Later 6-size models were all based on the Model 15 platform with changes to jewel sizes and the winding and setting mechanism. The Model 15 parts list shared some of those used on the 12 x 6 spread movements.
The Model 16
The Model 16 was made in two separate runs, with the first from SN 160001 up to 200000 and the second run from SN 400001 to 420000, for a total of 59,000 movements. Other than some minor changes to the mainspring barrel and arbor they were identical to the Model 15 with the plate finishes and jewel counts of 7 to 15 remaining unchanged.
The Model 17
130,000 movements were produced in two runs from SN 420001 up to 500000 and from SN 900001 up to 950000. The Model 17 was nearly identical to the M16, but upgraded with Breguet hairsprings and now offered in jewel counts of 7, 11, 12, 15, and 17. The counts of 12 and 17 have been reported in only the Edgemere grade.
The 12 x 6 Spread Movements
These watches first appeared around 1900 and were a Model 15 with a larger 12-size pillar plate, offered in the same three jewel counts in either lever-set hunting or open-face with no seconds bit on the dial. Later versions were based on the Model 18, with a longer setting arm appearing on the parts list. Some publications advertise these movements as pendant-set, despite the fact that neither the 1904 Model 15 or 18 parts lists include no provisions for a pendant-set mechanism. No model designates are known but they were included as part of the Eagle Series with six of their own grade numbers, continuing to the end in 1913.
The Century Series Serial Number Blocks
The Model 18
The Model 18 was produced in three separate blocks from SN 950001 up to 1000000, from SN 3250000 to 3258700, and finishing with a final block above SN 4000000. They came in both nickel and two-tone, and had 7 jewels, flat hairsprings, solid center pinions, and a separate parts catalog entirely its own. All of the reported movements are named grades.
The Model 19*
This assigned grade appears in several of the Ehrhardt volumes and is based on a 7-jewel Model 18 that was equipped with a Breguet hairspring. Production totals so far are evidently confined to a narrow range of a few thousand movements from SN 3000000 to 3004500.
* This is an assigned model number. The factory designation is not known.
The Models 14 to 19 Run Chart
The serial number runs for the models alternated with each other up to SN 1000000, which backs up the information in Chris Bailey's 1981 publication. Factory records past this point have not been found, so any blocks beyond SN 1000000 are based on reported examples.
Adonis
Athabasca
Athabasca
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 18
Athabasca
Athabasca
Athabasca
7-jewel two-tone Grade 35 Model 18
Century
Athabasca
Columbia
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 18
Columbia
Countess Janet
Columbia
7-jewel two-tone Grade 35 Model 16
Countess Janet
Countess Janet
Countess Janet
7-jewel two-tone Gr 35 M 18 w/ fake caps
Garden City
Countess Janet
Countess Janet
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 15
Knickerbocker
Knickerbocker
Knickerbocker
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 18
Lake Shore
Knickerbocker
Knickerbocker
15-jewel nickel Grade 205 Model 18
Osaka
Knickerbocker
Sentinel
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 15
Sentinel
Stratford
Sentinel
7-jewel two-tone Gr 35 M 18 w/ fake caps
Stratford
Stratford
Stratford
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 18
Waldorf
Stratford
Stratford
15-jewel nickel Grade 205 Model 18
The Rose Movements
The first three thousand or so Model 15s were stamped with the image of a rose up until around SN 133000, when the factory name and location were added. These early examples are quite scarce because the maker was not obvious and were likely tossed out. Most of the reported examples came equipped with either an unmarked colored fancy dial or one with a Rose-signature dial, which are very rare. It is not known if this is a factory grade or a contract piece, but the only known record depicting a rose-stamped movement is the 1893 Trade List with a caption listing it as a Grade 5.
The Edgemere Grade
Sears, Roebuck & Co
The Edgemere was another named grade, made by the factory for Sears Roebuck & Co, which was a Chicago-based mail-order retailer founded by Richard Sears and watchmaker Alvah Roebuck in 1891 to compete with retailing giant Montgomery Ward. The Edgemere was available with the standard jewel counts of 7, 11, and 17, plus an unusual one of 12 jewels - the upper plate was fully jeweled, while the pillar plate was bushed. The earliest known block of them appeared in the Model 16 at roughly SN 197400 in 11-jewel and finishing up in 7-jewel in the Model 17 at around SN 495000. The Sears catalog debuted in 1893, but it's not known exactly when they started carrying the Seth Thomas line.
Embossed Dial
Metal on Porcelain
Embossed Dial
Fancy Dial
Metal on Porcelain
Embossed Dial
Metal on Porcelain
Metal on Porcelain
Metal on Porcelain
7-jewel Grade 35
15-jewel Grade 205
Metal on Porcelain
The two-tone pattern in stripes. None of the reported 7-jewel examples have nickel plates.
7-jewel Grade 35
15-jewel Grade 205
15-jewel Grade 205
The flashed-gilt pattern. None of the reported 7-jewel examples have nickel plates.
15-jewel Grade 205
15-jewel Grade 205
15-jewel Grade 205
All known 15-jewel examples have nickel plates, with no two-tone patterns reported.
The Banner Watches
The Banner watches were 11-jewel Grade 105 movements with specially marked dials, though the movements bore the standard markings and patterns. They have been reported in Models 16 and 17 Eagle Series SN blocks, and were available as a movement or factory cased. It is not known for whom these pieces were made or if they were marketed alongside regular production grades.
Garden City
Lapp & Flershem
This Chicago wholesaler marketed itself as The Busiest House in America in the 1870s, selling only to retailers but not ordinary citizens - the middleman concept already firmly in place. Their catalog carried a short list of 6 and 18-size 7-jewel watches under the name of Garden City, made by Seth Thomas. Very few examples have been logged.
The Signatures
So far several signed dials have been reported on plain movements, as well as marked movements with plain dials, but no double-marked examples have turned up yet. The marked 18-size movements carry the letters BHA; what this stands for is not known.
Period Ad Cuts
1904
1911 Young & Co
1911 Young & Co
1911 Young & Co
1911 Young & Co
1911 Young & Co
1913
1911 Young & Co
1913
Seth Thomas Highlights
The rarest regular-production two-tone pattern of all, made in one block of seventy - and then never again.