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The Models 15 to 19
1893 to 1913
The Models 15 through 19 were all based on the same design with some minor differences, while serial number runs alternated with those of the Model 14, which began production around 1890 to be marketed as ladies' watches. The factory appears to have had both the Models 14 and 15 in production at the same time, which is odd, since both are 6-size hunter lever-set movements. This second design, starting with the Model 15 and concluding with the Model 19, was divided into the Eagle and the Century Series, and roughly a quarter-million were produced overall. Complicating matters further was the 12 x 6 watches, which used 12-size dials on 6-size plates.
Grade Assignment
Grade assignments for all the 6-size models are ambiguous at best because most reported examples are parts movements without a dial photo, so it's impossible to know if it's pendant or lever-set. For ease of research all the 7-jewel movements are logged as lever-set Grade 35, though the pendant-set Grade 45 has been identified when possible.
The spread movements are 6-size models with a larger pillar plate to allow them to fit a 12-size case. They were advertised as both lever and pendant-set, but the various parts lists don't show any kind of pendant-set option. The factory offered six grade designations based on the two setting options and the jewel counts, so for ease of research all examples have been graded by jewel count and not the setting mechanism.
* Grades 115 and 225 are assigned and have been found only on the Edgemere.
The Models 14 to 19 Run Chart
The serial number runs for the models alternated with each other up to SN 1000000, which backs up the information in Chris Bailey's 1981 publication. Factory records past this point have not been found, so any blocks beyond SN 1000000 are based on reported examples.
The Eagle Series Serial Number Blocks
The Model 15
The total production of the Model 15 was around 27,000 pieces in four runs from SN 128001 up to 160000. Jewel counts were 7, 11, and 15 in gilt, nickel and two-tone, and all were lever-set with flat hairsprings. Later 6-size models were all based on the Model 15 platform with changes to jewel sizes and the winding and setting mechanism. The Model 15 parts list shared some of those used on the 12 x 6 spread movements.
The Model 16
The Model 16 was made in two separate runs, with the first from SN 160001 up to 200000 and the second run from SN 400001 to 420000, for a total of 59,000 movements. Other than some minor changes to the mainspring barrel and arbor they were identical to the Model 15 with the plate finishes and jewel counts of 7 to 15 remaining unchanged.
The Model 17
130,000 movements were produced in two runs from SN 420001 up to 500000 and from SN 900001 up to 950000. The Model 17 was nearly identical to the M16, but upgraded with Breguet hairsprings and now offered in jewel counts of 7, 11, 12, 15, and 17. The counts of 12 and 17 have been reported in only the Edgemere grade.
The 12 x 6 Spread Movements
These watches first appeared around 1900 and were a Model 15 with a larger 12-size pillar plate, offered in the same three jewel counts in either lever-set hunting or open-face with no seconds bit on the dial. Later versions were based on the Model 18, with a longer setting arm appearing on the parts list. Some publications advertise these movements as pendant-set, despite the fact that neither the 1904 Model 15 or 18 parts lists include no provisions for a pendant-set mechanism. No model designates are known but they were included as part of the Eagle Series with six of their own grade numbers, continuing to the end in 1913.
The Century Series Serial Number Blocks
The Model 18
The Model 18 was produced in three separate blocks from SN 950001 up to 1000000, from SN 3250000 to 3258700, and finishing with a final block above SN 4000000. They came in both nickel and two-tone, and had 7 jewels, flat hairsprings, solid center pinions, and a separate parts catalog entirely its own. All of the reported movements are named grades.
The Model 19*
This assigned grade appears in several of the Ehrhardt volumes and is based on a 7-jewel Model 18 that was equipped with a Breguet hairspring. Production totals so far are evidently confined to a narrow range of a few thousand movements from SN 3000000 to 3004500.
* This is an assigned model number. The factory designation is not known.
The Rose Movements
The first three thousand or so Model 15s were stamped with the image of a rose up until around SN 133000, when the factory name and location were added. These early examples are quite scarce because the maker was not obvious and were likely tossed out. Most of the reported examples came equipped with either an unmarked colored fancy dial or one with a Rose-signature dial, which are very rare. It is not known if this is a factory grade or a contract piece, but the only known record depicting a rose-stamped movement is the 1893 Trade List with a caption listing it as a Grade 5.
Roughly 10,500 of them were produced in four runs, all of them with a count of seven jewels on nickel plates.
The Edgemere Grade
Sears, Roebuck & Co
The Edgemere was made for Sears Roebuck & Co, a Chicago mail-order retailer founded by Richard Sears and watchmaker Alvah Roebuck in 1891 to compete with retailing giant Montgomery Ward. The Edgemere was available with the standard jewel counts, plus an unusual one of 12 jewels - the upper plate was fully jeweled, while the pillar plate was bushed. The earliest known block of them appeared in the Model 16 and evidently finished up in the Model 17. All of the reported examples are two-tone, and production totals in both models are as follows:
- 7-jewel - 15,200 produced in ten runs
- 11-jewel - 900 produced in four runs
- 12-jewel - 1,000 produced in one run
- 15-jewel - none reported
- 17-jewel - 1,000 produced in one run
Embossed Dial
Metal on Porcelain
Embossed Dial
Fancy Dial
Metal on Porcelain
Embossed Dial
Metal on Porcelain
Metal on Porcelain
Metal on Porcelain
7-jewel Grade 35
15-jewel Grade 205
Metal on Porcelain
The two-tone pattern in stripes. None of the reported 7-jewel examples have nickel plates.
7-jewel Grade 35
15-jewel Grade 205
15-jewel Grade 205
The flashed-gilt pattern. None of the reported 7-jewel examples have nickel plates.
15-jewel Grade 205
15-jewel Grade 205
15-jewel Grade 205
All known 15-jewel examples have nickel plates, with no two-tone patterns reported.
Other Models 15 to 19 Contract Grades
Adonis
Athabasca
Athabasca
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 18
3,000 produced in 2 runs
Athabasca
Athabasca
Athabasca
7-jewel two-tone Grade 35 Model 18
300 produced in one run
Century
Athabasca
Columbia
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 18
11,000 produced in 13 runs
Columbia
Countess Janet
Columbia
7-jewel two-tone Grade 35 Model 15 & 16
200 produced in 2 runs
Countess Janet
Countess Janet
Countess Janet
7-jewel two-tone Gr 35 M 18 w/ fake caps
1,900 produced in four runs
Garden City
Countess Janet
Countess Janet
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 15
500 produced in one run
Knickerbocker
Knickerbocker
Knickerbocker
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 18
2,000 produced in two runs
Lake Shore
Knickerbocker
Knickerbocker
15-jewel nickel Grade 205 Model 18
1,200 produced in two runs
Osaka
Knickerbocker
Sentinel
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 15
800 produced in one run
Sentinel
Stratford
Sentinel
7-jewel two-tone Gr 35 M 18 w/ fake caps
1,800 produced in three runs
Stratford
Stratford
Stratford
7-jewel nickel Grade 35 Model 18
1,500 produced in four runs
Waldorf
Stratford
Stratford
15-jewel nickel Grade 205 Model 18
1,100 produced in two runs
Period Ad Cuts
1904
1904 factory catalog cut.
Unknown Date
Lapp & Flershem ad showing the Garden City and Eagle movements and watches.
1906
1911
Ad from retailer Young & Company.
1913
Factory catalog cut.
Unknown Date
Ad for the Countess Janet showing "imitation ruby jewels" and admitting that this cheap watch will keep only fair time.
Seth Thomas Highlights
The rarest regular-production two-tone pattern of all, made in one block of seventy - and then never again.